Paintings of the flatlands of England 1

John Constable (1776–1837), The Vale of Dedham (1828), oil on canvas, 122 x 144.5 cm, Scottish National Gallery, Edinburgh. Wikimedia Commons.

This weekend we’re off on a lightning tour of the flatlands of England, in what’s widely known as East Anglia. Today we’ll start in the north of Essex, and pass through Suffolk, then tomorrow we’ll see Norfolk before ending at its north-western edge in Lincoln.

From a landscape painter’s view these present the same problems as the ‘low countries’ on the opposite side of the North Sea: flat, often featureless land that quickly becomes monotonous. While the great artists of the Netherlands sought solace in big skies, the English often relied on trees.

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Ford Madox Brown (1821–1893), Walton-on-the-Naze (1860), oil on canvas, 31.7 x 41.9 cm, Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, Birmingham, England. Wikimedia Commons.

In the south these flatlands start in Essex, where Ford Madox Brown painted this famous view of Walton-on-the-Naze in 1860. Brown is believed to have started this when he visited the coastal village in north-east Essex in late August 1859, but cannot have worked long at it en plein air before returning home. In addition to fine detail, it incorporates two unusual features: ephemeral lighting effects by way of its rainbow, rising full moon, and setting sun, and inclusion of the artist and his family as its main figures.

We travel to the north-west and cross into the more deeply rural farmland of Suffolk, where two of the finest British landscape painters grew up.

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Thomas Gainsborough (1727–1788), Cornard Wood, near Sudbury, Suffolk (1748), oil on canvas, 122 x 155 cm, The National Gallery, London. Wikimedia Commons.

Thomas Gainsborough’s view of Cornard Wood, near Sudbury, Suffolk from 1748 is a wonderful depiction of the countryside around his home, and one of John Constable’s favourite paintings.

Midway between Walton-on-the-Naze and Sudbury, and still in Suffolk, is the shallow valley of Dedham Vale, an area now known as Constable Country.

John Constable, "Dedham Lock and Mill", 1820, oil on canvas, 53.7 x 76.2 cm, Victoria and Albert Museum, London. WikiArt.
John Constable (1776–1837), Dedham Lock and Mill, 1820, oil on canvas, 53.7 x 76.2 cm, Victoria and Albert Museum, London. WikiArt.

It was here that John Constable painted most of his finest landscapes, among the great trees and waterways. This is Dedham Lock and Mill, painted in 1820, showing the lock on the River Stour owned by the artist’s family, and the distant tower of the village church in Dedham.

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John Constable (1776–1837), The Hay Wain (1821), oil on canvas, 130.2 × 185.4 cm, National Gallery, London. Wikimedia Commons.

Although now Constable’s most famous work, The Hay Wain (1821) failed to find a buyer when originally exhibited at the Royal Academy in London. It did, though, attract attention from some of the French visitors, including the artist Théodore Géricault. The following year, Constable exhibited it at the British Institution and asked 150 guineas (£157) for it, but it again failed to sell. One of those who saw it there was a French dealer named John Arrowsmith, who made Constable an offer of £70 which he declined, but it opened opportunities for him to exhibit and sell successfully in France.

Flatford Mill and Willie Lott’s Cottage, shown at the left, are downstream on the Stour from Dedham.

John Constable (1776–1837), The Cornfield (1826), oil on canvas, 143 x 122 cm, The National Gallery, London. Wikimedia Commons.
John Constable (1776–1837), The Cornfield (1826), oil on canvas, 143 x 122 cm, The National Gallery, London. Wikimedia Commons.

The Cornfield (1826) is a view looking down Fen Lane in East Bergholt, to the north of the River Stour, although its distant church is an invention of Constable’s.

John Constable (1776–1837), The Vale of Dedham (1828), oil on canvas, 122 x 144.5 cm, Scottish National Gallery, Edinburgh. Wikimedia Commons.
John Constable (1776–1837), The Vale of Dedham (1828), oil on canvas, 122 x 144.5 cm, Scottish National Gallery, Edinburgh. Wikimedia Commons.

Trees again dominate Constable’s favourite view of The Vale of Dedham from 1828, painted from Gun Hill over the village of Dedham and its church tower, looking towards the estuary of the River Stour in the distance.

During the twentieth century, Constable Country attracted many visitors, including a succession of artists. Among them was the New Zealand painter Frances Hodgkins.

Flatford Mill 1930 by Frances Hodgkins 1869-1947
Frances Hodgkins (1869–1947), Flatford Mill (1930), oil on canvas, 72.4 x 76.2 cm, The Tate Gallery (Presented by the Contemporary Art Society 1951), London. © The Tate Gallery and Photographic Rights © Tate (2016), CC-BY-NC-ND 3.0 (Unported), https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/hodgkins-flatford-mill-n05978

In 1930, Hodgkins spent the summer painting at East Bergholt, Suffolk. Two paintings from that summer have near-identical titles: above is Flatford Mill (1930), now in the Tate Gallery, London, and below is Flatford Mill, Suffolk (1930), now in a provincial gallery in Eastbourne. She wasn’t tempted to revisit Constable’s compositions, choosing elevated viewpoints to look down on the mirror-like surface of the water from the treetops.

Hodgkins, Frances, 1869-1947; Flatford Mill, Suffolk
Frances Hodgkins (1869–1947), Flatford Mill, Suffolk (1930), oil on canvas, 58.5 x 72 cm, Towner Gallery, Eastbourne, England. Wikimedia Commons.

The Suffolk coast is far enough away from London to have remained more unspoilt than that of Essex. While its strongest artistic connections are with music, particularly Benjamin Britten and his festival in Aldeburgh, this section of coast became popular with some of the British Impressionists in the late nineteenth century.

Girls Running, Walberswick Pier 1888-94 by Philip Wilson Steer 1860-1942
Philip Wilson Steer (1860–1942), Girls Running, Walberswick Pier (1888-94), oil on canvas, 62.9 x 92.7 cm, The Tate Gallery (Presented by Lady Augustus Daniel 1951), London. © The Tate Gallery and Photographic Rights © Tate (2016), CC-BY-NC-ND 3.0 (Unported), https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/steer-girls-running-walberswick-pier-n06008

In the late 1880s, Philip Wilson Steer regularly visited the coast of north Suffolk, painting in two small but popular resorts, Walberswick and Southwold, which are only a mile apart. Among the scenes he painted there are Girls Running, Walberswick Pier (1888-94), above, and the next two works. Originally, the two girls were shown to be holding hands, but Steer reworked that to leave only their shadows with their hands together.

The Beach at Walberswick ?c.1889 by Philip Wilson Steer 1860-1942
Philip Wilson Steer (1860–1942), The Beach at Walberswick (c 1889), oil on wood, 60.3 × 76.1 cm, The Tate Gallery (Purchased 1942), London. © The Tate Gallery and Photographic Rights © Tate (2016), CC-BY-NC-ND 3.0 (Unported), https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/steer-the-beach-at-walberswick-n05351

The last paintings for today show The Beach at Walberswick above, and nearby Southwold below, both painted by Steer in about 1889.

Southwold c.1889 by Philip Wilson Steer 1860-1942
Philip Wilson Steer (1860–1942), Southwold (c 1889), oil on canvas, 50.5 x 61 cm, The Tate Gallery (Purchased 1942), London. © The Tate Gallery and Photographic Rights © Tate (2016), CC-BY-NC-ND 3.0 (Unported), https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/steer-southwold-n05374

Tomorrow we’ll travel north into Norfolk.