Painting la Manche: Calais to Étretat

Eugène Boudin (1824–1898), Saint-Valery-sur-Somme. The Mouth of the Somme (1891), oil on canvas, 46 × 65.4 cm, Private Collection. Wikimedia Commons.

Almost a month ago I took a trip along England’s Channel coast in paintings. This weekend is the return match, travelling west along the north French coast of la Manche, again in the company of some of Europe’s finest landscape painters. We start today as many British visitors would in the ferry port of Calais, and aim to end the day near Le Havre.

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Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775–1851), Calais Pier, with French Poissards preparing for Sea: an English Packet arriving (1803), oil on canvas, 172 x 240 cm, The National Gallery (Turner Bequest, 1856), London. Image courtesy of and © The National Gallery.

In 1802, during the lull between the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars, JMW Turner turned his attentions to the European continent. He crossed from Dover to Calais, the shortest route but often a rough one, and caught the sea when it was less comfortable. He painted the scene of his arrival in France in Calais Pier, with French Poissards preparing for Sea: an English Packet arriving (1803), whose French fishermen seem happy to head out in search of a catch.

Although Turner uses the light with great skill, and illuminates the sail of one of the vessels leaving, when shown at the Royal Academy opinion was that the foreground was unfinished, and it wasn’t well received.

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Clarkson Frederick Stanfield (1793–1867), Sands near Boulogne (1838), oil on canvas, 71.1 x 110.5 cm, The Victoria and Albert Museum (Given by John Sheepshanks, 1857), London. Image courtesy of and © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Clarkson Stanfield also crossed the Channel, and his Sands near Boulogne (1838) shows a catch of fish being landed on this low and flat section of the French coast to the south-east of Calais.

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Virginie Demont-Breton (1859–1935), The Beach (1883), oil on canvas, 190 x 348 cm, Musée des Beaux-Arts d’Arras, Arras, France. Wikimedia Commons.

Virginie Demont-Breton’s The Beach (1883), painted on this stretch of the Channel coast, was exhibited at the Salon in 1883, where it earned her ‘hors-concours’ (because of exemplary record, her works didn’t need to be submitted to the jury in future), and was purchased by the state.

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Ludovic-Napoléon Lepic (1839–1889), Fishing Boat Entering Berck (c 1876), oil on canvas, dimensions not known, Palais des Beaux-Arts de Lille, Lille. Photo by Remi Jouan, via Wikimedia Commons.

A couple of years after he exhibited at the First Impressionist Exhibition, Ludovic-Napoléon Lepic painted this Fishing Boat Entering Berck, showing the chaos among and damage to a fleet of small fishing boats as they struggle with heavy seas off the fishing port of Berck, to the south of Le Touquet. The vessel closest has sheared its bowsprit, is at risk of sinking by the stern, and its sails are ragged. Others also appear in quite serious difficulties.

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Eugène Boudin (1824–1898), Saint-Valery-sur-Somme. The Mouth of the Somme (1891), oil on canvas, 46 × 65.4 cm, Private Collection. Wikimedia Commons.

This stretch of coast was also the painting ground of Eugène Boudin, whose Saint-Valery-sur-Somme. The Mouth of the Somme (1891) is a more colourful view featuring the setting sun, to the north-east of Dieppe.

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Évariste Carpentier (1845–1922), Tréport, Bathing Time (1882), oil on canvas, 50.5 x 80.5 cm, Private collection. Wikimedia Commons.

Évariste Carpentier’s Le Tréport, Bathing Time shows progress in the development of beach costume and culture in the late nineteenth century. A young girl in the left foreground is playing with her bucket and spade, while her older brother is admiring the fashionable young woman parading her new clothes, so exposing her arms and lower legs.

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JMW Turner (1775–1851), The Harbour of Dieppe (c 1826), oil on canvas, 173.7 x 225.4 cm, The Frick Collection, New York, NY. Wikimedia Commons.

Turner toured northern France painting coastal scenes, including the bustling Harbour of Dieppe, which he made in about 1826 from a series of sketches and studies.

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Louis-Gabriel-Eugène Isabey (1803-1886), The Town and Harbour of Dieppe (1842), oil on canvas, dimensions not known, Musée des beaux-arts de Nancy, Nancy, France. Image by Ji-Elle, via Wikimedia Commons.

A few years later, Eugène Isabey caught The Town and Harbour of Dieppe on a greyer day in 1842, with laundresses in the foreground seizing a break between showers to get on with their work.

The next major port to the south-west is Le Havre, where Claude Monet grew up. Not far from there is the village and famous cliff at Étretat, which became hugely popular with artists in the middle of the nineteenth century.

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Johan Barthold Jongkind (1819–1891), Étretat Harbour (1852), oil on canvas, 68 x 103 cm, Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, The Netherlands. Wikimedia Commons.

The first pre-Impressionist painter to have shown particular interest in Étretat Harbour was Johan Jongkind, who painted it in 1852, when it was still small and undiscovered.

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Claude Monet (1840–1926), Stormy Sea in Étretat (1883), oil on canvas, 100 x 81 cm, Musée des Beaux-Arts, Lyon, France. Wikimedia Commons.

Thirty years later, at the height of Impressionism, Monet painted this Stormy Sea at Étretat (1883) from the beach directly in front of the village, and it proved a prototype for a small series.

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Richard Parkes Bonington (1802–1828), On the Coast of Picardy (c 1825-6) (187), oil on canvas, 36.8 x 50.7 cm, The Wallace Collection, London. Wikimedia Commons.

Richard Parkes Bonington visited the area just north of Le Havre, where he painted On the Coast of Picardy in about 1825-6.